Traveling to Marrakech: An honest guide to visiting this chaotic city of Morocco

Oh, Marrakech, where do I even begin? Maybe too naively, I’ve always romanticized the busy souks, dry heat, tambourine music, and rich Moroccan food. Marrakech seemed like the perfect place to visit during an impromptu trip. Little did I know, it would end completely different than what I imagined.

I ended up there more or less spontaneously after booking a last-minute trip to Europe. While in Bordeaux, I was looking for the cheapest flights somewhere else and ended up flying to Morocco for a whole $50. Traveling to Marrakech was always on my bucket list so I said f*ck it.

Overall, I had a good time there and I would recommend visiting it. While each experience isn’t identical, you should be prepared for what to expect there, especially as a female traveler. In my guide, I’ll explain the good, bad and annoying but most importantly, I’ll give you well-planned itineraries to download for your 1, 2, or 3-day travels.

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Let’s get to the logistics

Suggested length of stay

Since there is a good chunk of things to do in the city, ideally, you’d need a minimum of 3 days to spend there. You’ll soak in the atmosphere of Marrakech and see the major highlights of the city. If you’re planning to see the Sahara desert, add 3 more days to the itinerary too.

There are many sights to fill your days with activities but part of the experience is also getting used to the chaos of this place. As beautiful as the city is, it can also be exhausting. Most people can’t handle it for a while and move to other parts of Morocco like the coast or Sahara desert. Overall, I recommend a minimum of 3 days in Marrakech but ideally around 5 if possible.

Layout of Marrakech

There are two main areas, Old Medina and New Town. The medina is very traditional. You will need to show major modesty if you’re a woman but more on the dress code later on in the guide. The medina is where you will find the famous town square Jemaa el-Fna with all the souks. You need to be more cautious in terms of getting scammed because let’s be honest, the souks are not as romantic as you think.

The new town is completely modern and gives off a totally different vibe with a more open mindset. There are also a lot more modern restaurants offering alcohol, music, and entertainment. It’s honestly crazy how different it is compared to Medina.

I personally stayed in the medina and I liked it. If I had to do it all over again I would probably choose it too. It was a very different experience but I’m happy I got a glimpse into a more traditional life. Although it wasn’t the easiest place to stay, the new town was familiar and comfortable. Old town pushed my limits and showed me another culture more up close. And that’s the purpose of travel, isn’t it? 🙂

Transport

After the cheap and annoying Ryanair Marrakech flight, I was blown away by how nice the airport was. It was super modern and put my local Newark Airport to shame. To get to the main part of the city or the medina, do not accept the first taxi that offers you a ride into town. Usually the hotel you stay in offers to pick you up at a decent price (should be around $15) so I would just take that rather than risking it especially if you’re traveling alone. 

Marrakech is a very big city with a very confusing layout. The roads do not follow any patterns, especially in the medina. You can walk all of the medina and a lot of the streets will not be car accessible. If you go outside, your best bet is a meter taxi. Please INSIST that they turn on their meter because if they see that you’re a tourist, a lot of the taxis will try to scam you. This is a given.

I haven’t used the buses as they are old, filled with people and don’t have defined routes but if you can navigate that, I admire you!

People of Morocco

Generally, the people are very nice. Hospitality is definitely a huge part of their culture and it shows. Our hosts at the hostel were friendly, welcoming and helped us navigate the city. However being outside the hostel, was a different story. The shop owners, especially in the older parts of town were pushy, sometimes even aggressive. As a woman, you will most likely get cat-called multiple times per day. If you’re accompanied by a man, you probably won’t. I talked to many travelers and all had that experience so I don’t think it was something that I encountered alone.

Inside the restaurants, I had positive experiences and I was able to talk to some friendly locals. My advice is to simply be cautious. Gauge the situation: is this person just being friendly or are they asking me to follow them somewhere or trying to convince me to buy something? Be open-minded, don’t assume everyone is out to get you but also assess what context you’re in. 

Is Marrakech safe?

Overall, I would describe a walk in the medina as annoying, not dangerous. I was annoyed about the number of times I was approached by men. I traveled with my best friend and two girls walking alone in the street, got us a lot of unsolicited comments. Although we tried to cover up, it was July and there is only so much you can do at 110 degrees Fahrenheit. But remember to be respectful of the local culture, don’t wear shorts or tank tops or you will be stared at. At the end of the day, you chose a more conservative place to visit, so follow the local culture. 

Warning: Lots of scammers 

Sorry, not sorry but a lot of Morocco is full of scammers. People are going to appear overly friendly so be smart. They most likely just want to sell you things. In my experience, most people are not dangerous but they do want to make a profit off of you if you’re a tourist. If they seem too friendly for a stranger there could be an agenda there. I’m all for making money off of tourism, but there is a line a lot of people in Morocco cross. You get pushed into buying things, people deceive you and the haggling gets annoying.

This post covers the most common scams very well. I can vouch for the accuracy because I myself have experienced a lot of them from that list. As beautiful as the country is, these experiences forever tainted my view of Morocco and for that reason alone, I will warn you over and over about your expectations.

Food in Morocco

Now something positive 🙂

Moroccan food is definitely outside of my normal taste palette but I had a really good time trying new dishes and exploring this cuisine. I took the approach of being adventurous. I recommend that you try something new. If you do not know what to get, ask the locals what they like or ask the waiter for what the restaurant is known for, and eat away. Some popular dishes include couscous, tajine (in many many forms), cold salads, snail soups, well-known harira, or even sheep head or brains. There are many cool posts on this topic, see some here or here or here. Note the heavy presence of herbs. What I also noticed is that all the food I had was very, very fresh. 

In terms of drinking, the locals will feed you “berber whiskey” or mint tea, which was one of my favorite ways to start the day or get a little afternoon kick. Everyone has tea together and it’s a beautiful way to bond with others. Note to my fellow alcohol connoisseurs, Marrakech Medina is mostly a conservative muslin environment so you won’t find bars in the old town and if you do, you probably shouldn’t be in there.

Some restaurants will serve you alcohol, however, but they’re hard to come across. If you want a party scene, the new town has a lot of interesting and modern places. I even did a little wine tasting at the local bar. At the higher-end restaurants, you will get live music, belly dancing shows, and other entertainment. Might be worth the overpriced food you’ll be paying for.  

What to wear in Marrakech

The Moroccan dress code can be pretty conservative for a Westerner female. Traveling to Marrakech, I did my reason and assumed I was pretty prepared for a respectful dress code. I wore loose dresses that covered my shoulders and knees along with shawls in the medina. Traveling with my best friend, she followed a similar dress code. Unfortunately, we both experienced unwanted comments and even scream from older men shaming us. I noticed that majority of the females that traveled with other men were not approached but those traveling alone were a constant target. Those traveling with men were able to get away with a less restrictive dress code too.

As a sign of respect, especially if you visit the medina, these are my personal recommendations for women:

• No deep v-neck cuts
• No shorts/skirts above the knee
• Covered shoulders
• Nothing that calls major attention to yourself

Where to stay in Marrakech

I am a huge fan of hostels. Despite what some think of them, in my opinion, they’re an amazing place to stay in a new country. They often organize many activities and tours but the best part is that you can meet a lot of new people from all over the world. The one I stayed in (Rouge Hostel) was located in the heart of the medina. They picked us up from the airport and the owners made sure we were safe. Since Morocco is an overall cheap country, you can get a boujee hotel for really cheap. If that’s the route you choose, make sure to check the reviews to get an overall vibe of what the hostel will be like. Note that in the majority of the country, men and women need to stay in separate areas of shared spaces.

If hostels aren’t your thing, honestly, your options are endless here since it is a fairly cheap country. If you want something more resort-like, outside the city you can find some amazing options at great prices. I would personally love to stay in one next time I visit to get a different travel perspective of the city.

Sightseeing

The best part of Marrakech is the number of places you can visit. That is my opinion will give you the perfect day in Marrakech you’ve been looking for. My absolute favorite part was the architecture which is stunning and very different from what I know. If you don’t feel comfortable exploring the medina on your own, walking tours are always an amazing option. Even though it’s free, you always tip in the end ($5-10) per person depending on how good the tour was. There are many companies, so I usually just pick one based on reviews because they’re all comparable.

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Perfect Things To Do In Marrakech

Marrakech is one of those cities that you can’t get enough of in terms of its art and things to see. Even though it can be quite annoying and difficult to visit as a female traveler, it certainly doesn’t disappoint in the amount of beauty it has. Below I list the places I really enjoyed but if you want to download an itinerary for your stay, just stroll down to the end 🙂

Jemaa El Fna Square

The main square of Marrakech and the most massive town square I have ever seen in my life. It is overwhelming, loud, weird yet strangely fascinating. There are snakes, monkeys, pushy vendors, and massive amounts of people. I strongly suggest coming to see it during the day and returning to see it at night. It is pure sensory overload.

I cannot stress this enough: vendors will be extremely pushy trying to sell you things, tell you that they will give you something for free or they will show you something interesting a couple of streets away. Be firm and say no and they will go away. I had a hard time letting my guard down as I lost track of the number of times someone tried to sell me something. With a firm no, I was able to tune out the annoyances as I thoroughly explored this famous square.

Some advice for you:

• There are many balcony cafes all around the square that offer prime views at the cost of purchasing an overpriced soft drink. It’s honestly worth it.
• If you’d like to dig into the street food, all the carts sell comparable yet adventurous meals.
• There is a serious overabundance of juice stands. Get fresh orange (or any other fresh fruit) juice too, they’re super tasty.
• Ladies, don’t get a henna tattoo. They’re questionable and could harm your skin as the chemicals used in the square aren’t always of the best quality.
• There will be tons of kids chasing you asking for money, something I personally struggle with every time. I don’t have a good answer on how to deal with it.
• A random snake show will happen as you pass by or a monkey will show up on your shoulder.
• Just be smart. Don’t fall for the traps.

Souks in Marrakech

The souks are massive. Starting from the main square, they branch out into many different mazes. If you’re into shopping and finding unique items, this place is 100% a must for you. From textiles to leather goods, to spices, to trinkets, to ceramics, jewelry, shoes, clothes, furniture, name it, it’s there.

First things first. If you don’t like haggling (like myself) and getting easily persuaded into buying things, opt out for a store instead. Otherwise, remember to always haggle and never ever accept the first price. Usually, ⅓ to ¼ of the initial offer price is the real value. Do not feel bad about bargaining, it is part of the culture if done politely and with some fun added to it. Do not bargain if you don’t intend on buying either. It is considered rude. If you get invited for tea inside, you’re expected to buy something even if it is small. It is certainly ok to accept, but you should buy something out of respect.

Next, do not fall into the rug scam. They will try to sell you “handmade” rugs for $100. They’re most likely not handmade and you’ll end up with a $100 blanket like myself. I bought one, and it is a sweet blanket. It’s become a staple piece in my room to this day too.

Everyone will try to sell you argan oil. Do not follow people into little shops off the “main” street because you are simply asking to get ripped off. If you want to purchase a solid souvenir, I suggest jewelry like silver. I personally always like to add to my collection of rings from all over the world. My jewelry always becomes a nice reminder of the place I visited and it’s very easy to bring back home. People in hostels often notice my rings and they become good conversation starters about some adventure stories.

Jardin Majorelle

This is a famous museum and garden masterpiece of Yves Saint Laurent and his boyfriend Pierre Berge. Located in the new part of town, you will get to appreciate a different perspective of Marrakech. The blue and yellow colors dominate the place along with the beautiful plants and trees. Without a doubt, this is an instagrammable stop for those looking to get some awesome shots.

I found it relaxing and enjoyed exploring the grounds. It is better to see this on a sunny day as the sun will exaggerate all the colors. When visiting, expect to pay a small entrance fee and stand in a queue during peak times.

If you’ve been watching Inventing Anna on Netflix lately, these are the gardens Rachel keeps on insisting to visit 🙂

The Bahia Palace

This former palace of the Sultan, his wives, and numerous concubines was built not that long ago. Its amazing gardens are a must-visit if you’re in Marrakech. The architecture is simply stunning. I found myself endlessly fascinated with the wood art, different tile patterns, courtyards, and gardens. It is a true work of art. I would recommend getting a guide to fully appreciate this beauty if you’re into history.

Marrakech Museum

Although I do not see this place as advertised as other landmarks, I think this is a must-see if you enjoy Moorish architecture. The artwork on display is nice but I found myself lost in the beauty of the building itself. The open courtyards, intricate tilework, and word carvings never got boring. There are so many good photo ops inside but I strongly recommend taking a pause for at least 15 minutes and just soaking it all in. 

Koutoubia Mosque

Koutoubia is the most known and iconic mosque in the city. Similar to many other Mosques, if you’re not Muslim you cannot go inside. I admired the beautiful exterior and walked around the courtyard. It’s 900 years old and a big architectural inspiration for many other structures around the world. 

There is a garden across from it too that’s worth a stroll. It’s nice for people watching and I found it quite calm in comparison to the proximal main square. 

Ben Youssef Madrasa

This old college is now a historic iconic site and a famous place to visit in the city. If you’re a seeker of architectural gems, you’ll love this museum. It is full of history so if you’re into the nitty-gritty stories of things, this is the place to read up on or get a guide for. As of summer 2019 when I visited, it was still under renovation. It was supposed to reopen in the spring of 2020 but I’m sure the pandemic has slowed that down. Note, this is a popular place, so when visiting don’t expect a small crowd.

Unique ideas for things to do in Marrakech

• Although it is certainly not Cappadocia, a hot air ballon Marrakesh ride is certainly a unique experience. Viator’s average price is around $200 so while not cheap, I imagine it’s worth it.
• If you won’t be making your way towards Sahara, you can see a smaller desert closer to the city and take a tour quad biking in Marrakesh.
• I don’t know if gambling in another country is ever a good idea but many travelers enjoy visiting the Casino Marrakech. It has a beautiful exterior but I can’t speak for what happens inside.
• Hammam Spa is a frequent activity for the locals in Morocco but something most foreigners have never experienced before. The spas range from very traditional to very upscale.
• Menara Gardens are a sight a lot of tourists skip because it’s simply a viewpoint but if you have some extra time in town, check out this spot for some beautiful mountain backdrops.

Thoughts on Traveling to Marrakech

Would I return to Marrakech in my lifetime? To be honest and it almost hurts me to say, only if I were traveling there with a male companion. As beautiful as the country is, the experience of traveling there as a woman and the amount of harassment I dealt with left a bad taste in my mouth. Even with the amount of covering up, not drawing attention, and simply wanting to see the country, it was a rough trip. I would like to reiterate though that at no point did I feel unsafe, I simply felt constantly annoyed. But experiences like these are highly subjective and I don’t want to discourage you from visiting. Morocco has a lot of potential in tourism and I hope they understand the impact of treating travelers a certain way.

With that said, I hope you’re prepared enough to make a decision for yourself, and if you do indeed decide to travel, as promised, here are some awesome downable itineraries for your stay.

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Marrakesh Itinerary: FREE Downloadable Guides for your stay

One Day In Marrakech

A single day in this city will be an overwhelming task but it is certainly doable. The city is simply chaotic, large, and certainly different compared to a western way of living. With this one-day Marrakech itinerary, prepare to be open-minded and resilient as some tasks may become difficult.

My one-day guide focuses on exploring the more traditional Medina in the morning and then heading over to the new city Gueliz for an afternoon change of scenery. This condensed version of Marrakech will give you two very different perspectives on it.

Two Days in Marrakech

Two days is a good option for those wanting to get a taste of this city and don’t have more time to spare. I say it’s enough to see the major highlights without the fear of missing too much. My two-day guide focuses on the old city for day one and the outskirts of town in addition to the new city for day two. With a fancy dinner and a show, this is the ideal tested guide for your two-day stay.

Three Days in Marrakech

Three days is a solid length of stay to experience what the city has to offer and see multiple sides of it. The first day focuses on thoroughly exploring the Old Medina, getting the most of the square, souks, and famous traditional architecture. Day two moves onto the outskirts of town and finally into the new town area. Since Morocco is a fairly inexpensive country, for day three, I suggest treating yourself to a spa experience, a hot air balloon ride as well as a nice dinner. For luxury activities like these, you will get a lot for your dollar’s worth!

Additionally, here is a map for a Morocco Trip: Marrakesh -> Merzouga -> Fes

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Have you had a similar experience in Morocco? Do you have your favorite places not listed here that you think I should include? Let me know in the comments below.

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