After visiting the city twice, I would say that 3 or even 4 days in Lisbon is a good amount of time for an introduction to the city. If you read this blog you know us professional besties like solid but quick getaways and that’s what you will get with this Lisbon guide. We’ll go over some logistics about the city and then I will give you a plan for an awesome Lisbon itinerary for your travels. What makes my blog super awesome is that you can just download this plan and you’re all set to go. No need to plan or stress over what to do and in what order, I already planned your 3 days in Lisbon!

Let’s get to the logistics

Before we dive into what there is to do in Lisbon, let’s talk about some logistics that will make your trip there much easier.

Quick things to know about Lisbon

• Lisbon is old. It’s one of the oldest cities in Europe and it’s at least 2700 years old. It’s older than Rome, London or Paris.
• Earthquake: In 1755, the city was devasted by an earthquake that ruined a big chunk of the city. The city’s history was highly influenced by this event and you will hear about it everywhere.
• Portuguese Azulejos are probably the most recognizable architectural pieces of Lisbon. These blue ceramic tiles are everywhere. While they morphed into a part of Portuguese art, if you visited places like Morocco or Spain, you can certainly see the Moorish roots in them.
• Street art: Lisbon has one of the coolest street art I have ever seen. There are many tours that take you around the Alfama neighborhood to see it but many tourists don’t venture off to see it.
• Fado: These melancholic ballads are a huge part of Portuguese culture. Make sure to set some time aside at night to see a “show” and experience this music in person.
• Portugal’s mainland is great but this country also has some sweet islands with easy flight connections from Lisbon. If you have some time to travel, consider Azores or Madeira.

Navigating Lisbon

Lisbon airport is located a short metro ride on the red line (6:30 am to 1 am). You’ll need to purchase a metro card called Viva Viagem for 0.50 cents and then you can load it up with tickets. Other options include the Aerobus or Taxi. With the Uber prices though, my recommendation would be to simply get one. Pick-up is in the departures area upstairs and a driver can only pick you up in that one spot.

Another popular Uber version in Europe is a company called Bolt. I would recommend downloading it prior to your trip because if you don’t have a sim card, you won’t be able to confirm your phone number abroad. I found Bolt to be even more affordable compared to Uber in Lisbon!

Trams are also a very popular way to travel within the city. The touristy Tram 28 runs through the main parts of the city and is usually pretty crowded. The cost is around ~ 3 euros or you can buy an unlimited ride for the day for 6.40. Here is a map for ya.

Where to stay in Lisbon

My first time in Lisbon was in a hostel and my second was in an Airbnb. If you read my guides, you know that I was obviously happier in a hostel, but Airbnb did its job 🙂

If it’s your first time in Lisbon, the best areas to stay in Lisbon are the more centrally located Baixa or Chiado neighborhoods. They’re both relatively flat for Lisbon and will allow you to see the most if you’re there for a short amount of time. Barrio Alto is quiet during the day but comes alive at night. If you’re planning to experience some nightlife in Lisbon and don’t want to be far away from it, consider staying in this area instead. Alfama is the neighborhood on the hills with distinctive street art, azulejos, and of course Fado music. I personally love Alfama but it could be exhausting to climb these hills and it is also not a first-time visitor’s ideal location.

People & Safety

Lisbon is undoubtedly becoming more and more touristy. The more tourists the more petty crime. So when you’re walking in crowded areas or taking public transport, make sure your eyes are on your belongings. If you’re walking inebriated in the narrow streets at 3 am all by yourself, don’t be surprised if you get mugged either. Other than that, Lisbon is one of the safest cities in Europe but if you’re interested in specific statistics, here is a fun resource for you to compare it to NYC.

People in Lisbon are nice and friendly although if it’s your first time in the city and you’re staying in the touristy area, you probably won’t interact with too many true locals. However, if you do spark a conversation with the Uber driver or at a restaurant, you’ll immediately notice their friendly nature.

Food in Lisbon

When you’re in Lisbon, there are a couple of bucket list culinary items you just have to try.

From the drinks side, you need to have some awesome Port wine. Porto is a great dessert wine and it’s very popular in Portugal. Ginja is my personal favorite and it is a cherry liquor. It’s best tasted from a hole-in-a-wall kind of place and even better if you spit the cherry pit on the sidewalk.

Pasteis de Nata have to be one of the most iconic pastry items you’ll encounter in Lisbon and for a good reason! They are addictive and no, one is not enough. Living in New Jersey, I am happy to be surrounded by a large Portuguese community who make the real deal Natas not too far from me. Here is a great article from the Montclair Girl on one of my favorite bakeries in Newark, NJ, Teixeira.

Seafood is a no-brainer in Portugal. Make sure to have the salty Bacalhau (cod), I personally like them in the pastry form. Polvo (octopus) and Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams) are also two items you shouldn’t miss. Lapas (sea mollusks) are big in Madeira but you’ll find them all over Lisbon too. Espetada (skewers) come in all combinations and even though they’re simple, they are honestly the perfect dish. Oh, and canned fish is a huge thing in Lisbon too. There are whole stores dedicated to it.

Here are some specific restaurant recommendations by Farah Trading and Daniela’s Blog.

Useful Lisbon advice

• People speak Portuguese in Lisbon. It’s better to speak English there than pretend like Portuguese is Spanish. I imagine it’s similar when people speak Russian to me while I am Polish. While I can understand some words, Russian isn’t Polish, and Polish isn’t Russian. So when you’re in Portugal, either speak Portuguese or your own language.
• Portugal is on the cheaper side of travel. If you don’t solely eat in touristy areas you can get some pretty cheap eats and drinks.
• Speaking of cheap, Uber/Bolt is so affordable that sometimes the comfort is worth it over using public transport. When you’re at the airport, it’s so much easier to Uber into town.
• Lisbon is great to travel with friends and it’s also fun to travel with a family. My first time there was with friends and the second time with my parents. It was an amazing time both times and I was able to appreciate different parts of the city with different groups.

Lisbon in my favorite travel TV shows

If you like travel shows and watching them before heading on your own journey, two of my fave people visited Lisbon at very different times. Some places overlapped between the shows and I can’t decide whether that is a good thing or not. However, here are the show references for ya:

Anthony Bourdain – No Reservations Season 8, Episode 4

• Cervejaria Ramiro – A very famous seafood place known to tourists and locals, you pick your fish here to eat for dinner.
• Sol E Pesca – Canned foods store that’s also a fishing shop!
• Tasca do Chico – A Fado joint which I recommend later on too!
• A Ginjinha – This is my favorite spot as well and it serves some delicious cherry liquor
• Cantinho do Avillez – Jose Avillez’s restaurant, he’s a very famous chef in Portugal
• 100 Maneiras – An Eastern European’s take on Portuguese food
• Alma – A fancy Michelin star place
• O Trevo – A spot for the Bifana sandwich

Somebody Feed Phil – Season 1, Episode 4

• Manteigaria at Time Out Market– A spot for a Pastel de Nata at the best market in town
• Tricana – A canned food spot
• Belcanto – The famous chef is back, Jose Avillez’s – you see a pattern yet ? 🙂
• Ponto Final – Located across the river, this actually looks like a sweet spot and I wish I made my way to visit it!
• Pastéis de Belém – A staple, wouldn’t miss it!
• Jesus é Goês – This was an interesting take on food with a mix of cultures.
• A Ginjinha – I mean you can’t skip this place right?
• Cervejaria Ramiro – Same as Tony’s stop
• Cafe Luso – Fado spot
• Additional spots – Manteigaria Silva, Croissant Gigante, Nannarella, Wurst, Alma

Lisbon Itinerary

While Lisbon is one of these cities you should certainly slow travel through if you only got a couple of days, here’s a 3 day plan for ya. Follow it for a nice introduction to Lisbon. At the bottom of the post, you can find a 3 days in Lisbon itinerary to download along with a map for your travel. But before you get there, make sure to read the post first 🙂

Day 1: Baixa and Waterfront

Downtown Lisbon: Walking Tour

When I travel to a new city, I will 9/10 times start my itinerary with a free walking tour. My first time in Lisbon, I took a tour with a hostel and it was amazing. We saw all different parts of the city, some touristy spots, some not, and at the time, I didn’t realize how lucky I was to find a tour like that.

The second time, I took a standard Free Walking Tour, and if I have to be 100% honest, it was too history-dense and too place sparse for my personal liking. Although I enjoyed it and the tour guide was super knowledgeable, I wish the tour covered a few more stops and fewer backstories. Comparing other companies in the area, I see that their routes are similar so I’ll let you decide if that’s the option you’d like to take.

• Sandemans – this is the one I took and it was very history dense.
• Hi Lisbon – A little shorter than Sandemans but has a very similar route.
• Discover Lisbon – check for the latest schedule because currently they only have Alfama tours.

If I were to do it again, I would likely take a paid tour that showed me more interesting spots and covered different parts of the city. While digging for some cool companies, I came across this business. I vibe with their whole tour model so if I visit again, I’ll try to tour with them instead.

Or Self-Guided Exploration of Baixa Neighborhood

In the case reading my humble opinion above discouraged you from a walking tour you were debating on, here are the places you’d likely see on one. You can easily follow this path on your own:

• Praca do Comercio: The main square of the city is a very nice landmark to start exploring Lisbon. There are various cafes around and although all are overpriced, I would pause for a morning cup of coffee or a glass of wine and people-watch for a little while enjoying the views of the plaza. At the entrance to Rua Augusta, The Arco (Arc) of Rua Augusta has a nice viewpoint (2.5 euro entrance) from which you can get a panoramic view of the area as well.
• Rua Augusta: This is the main shopping/touristy street in town. It’s worth a stroll to admire some nice tile work (or azulejos), Portuguese calçada stones, and a lively atmosphere. Don’t forget that touristy = pickpockety too 🙂
• Santa Justa Lift: Once you continue up Rua Augusta, you will reach the famous elevator. I wouldn’t recommend taking a ride up per se, but it is a cool landmark to see. Why shouldn’t you take a ride? Well, with a little physical effort, you can walk up the stairs to the top and admire similar views right behind the Convent instead of Terraços do Carmo without paying.
• Convento do Carmo: This catholic convent is known for still standing after the famous earthquake of 1755. If you’d like to enter, they have a short video summarizing the history, and entry costs around 5 euros. Otherwise, you can walk around, admire its medieval architecture, and even take a break on one of its many small lawns.
• Rossio Square: Rossio is another beautiful town square. When I visited in November, they had a cute artisanal holiday market but if you’re traveling during the summer, you’ll enjoy it for the lively atmosphere. To get there you’ll walk down a steep hill from the convent area.
• A Ginjinha: And now time for a very well-deserved break at my favorite place in Lisbon, A Ginjinha. It’s a little hole-in-the-wall bar serving traditional cherry liquor. Pop in for a shot or two and enjoy the historical significance of this place too.

Evening near waterfront

After a busy morning of exploring the town, a small break at your accommodation before the evening is a must. However, don’t get too comfy as we got the whole evening ahead of us. For the second part of the day, I recommend catching the sunset on the waterfront near Cais do Sodre. You’ll find local vendors there selling snacks and cold beers. People sit on the waterfront and enjoy this beautiful sunset with sailboats and bridges.

After the sunset, for a casual dinner, make sure to pop into Time Out Market in Lisbon. It’s a spot with tons of vendors and it’s an awesome place to visit. Not only can you try cool different foods, but a lot of it is also pretty traditional.

Last but not least, Lisbon is known for its nightlife. Although a full night of partying might be too much for the first day in the city, Pink Street has a good amount of bars and most importantly a great atmosphere for a night of debauchery.

Day 2: Alfama & Nightlife

Exploring Alfama

Alfama is a very distinctive neighborhood in Lisbon filled with narrow cobblestone streets, distinctive tile buildings, street art, and of course, many many hills. I personally find Alfama stunning and full of character. For your day 2 in Lisbon itinerary, I planned a walk through the highlights of this neighborhood. Disclaimer, prepare for a lot of walking and a decent amount of walking up and down hills. You can do this walk in either direction too:

• Lisbon Cathedral or Sé Cathedral: Roman catholic 12th-century historic gem. Catch the iconic tram 28 passing right in front of the church. Entry is free.
• Miradouro Sta. Luzia: Next, will make it up the hill to see our first viewpoint for the day. This viewpoint is a popular one so you’re not likely to have it to yourself.
• Miradouro Portas do Sol: Right around the corner, you’ll find another cool viewpoint. It’s very close so make sure to make a quick stop there too.
• Castelo de St. Jorge: This very old castle that stands on the hills of Alfama is a true historical gem. While you’ll have to pay for an entry ticket to see this place, I would pay just to see the camera obscura. If you read my Havana post, you know that these types of cameras are rare despite how awesome they are.
• Miradouro da Graca: After exploring the castle grounds, head over to another viewpoint for a slightly different perspective of the city. If you’re all Miradouroed out for the day, you can skip this spot.
• Pantheon: This is a church and burial site for important Portuguese people.
• Feira da Ladra: If you’re visiting on a Tuesday or Saturday, right next to the Pantheon, you’ll find this flea market full of some interesting finds.
• Get lost in Alfama: Walk toward the direction of Museo do Fado (and visit too if you’re interested in its history) but don’t take the main street route. Try to walk through the little streets and admire just how pretty Alfama is. I don’t have an exact route because the best of Alfama is found spontaneously.

After a pretty busy morning, if you still have some energy left, I would recommend grabbing an Uber to Azulejos Museum. For 5 euros you can admire the beautiful display of Lisbon’s tiles in a former convent. The place is stunning and worth an afternoon visit. Note that it closes at 6 pm and is closed on Mondays.

Evening in Lisbon

For a cool early evening activity, check out the awesome LxFactory, an industrial complex turned into a cool space for shops, restaurants, and art. It’s open until 10:30ish so make sure to make your way earlier in the evening to see the most of it.

If you still have some energy left, head over to Barrio Alto and enjoy the lively night atmosphere in the streets there. It won’t be difficult to find, just follow the people and the music 🙂

Day 3: Belem, Beach and Fado

By Day 3 of your Lisbon itinerary, you’ll have gotten what makes Lisbon so amazing. But before you say goodbye to Lisbon, you absolutely miss visiting Belem. Belem is a relatively small area in town so it should take you only a couple of hours as your morning activity. For the second part of the day, I recommend hopping on a train from Belem to spend the rest of the day exploring a cute beach town not too far from Lisbon’s city center. Don’t forget to pack your cute bathing suit and let’s enjoy an amazing last day in Lisbon.

Belem Neighborhood

I normally don’t enjoy overly hyped places but this is a place I already visited twice in my life and most likely will return to in the future as well. Yes, I am talking about the one and only Pastesis de Belem, the “birthplace” of these delicious pastries. I have no idea whether they were invented there or not and quite frankly I don’t really care because however they make them, they got it right. The place gets packed so the earlier you get there the better. You can either grab some to go, but I would recommend eating there instead.

Next, walk the area of Jeronimos Monastery, which you can also visit and learn more about this important site and burial place. The two gardens in the front provide a nice view of the stunning monastery. A short walk along the waterfront from there will lead you to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument and then the famous Belem Tower. Right behind the tower, you’ll also find a striking memorial, the Monument to the Overseas Combatants.

Beach Excursion

After you see Belem, walk over to the Alges station and hop on the train in the Cascais direction. It’s only a 30-minute ride to this cute little beach town. Oh, and did I mention that the route there is pretty scenic? when you get to Cascais, you can first enjoy some sunbathing on the beach. Then have a nice lunch in the downtown area of this cute town. If you have time, check out Boca do Inferno, a nice impressive cliff with an opening to the ocean.

Last night in Lisbon: Fado time

What’s a night in Lisbon without listening to some Fado? If you don’t know what Fado is, it’s a style of music, melancholic ballads, which are a part of the Portuguese identity. They’re beautiful and you should spend an evening in a dark bar listening to a performance of Fado on your trip. It’s a perfect way to say goodbye to Lisbon.

A more touristy and scheduled version of one with a show and dinner can be found at Clube de Fado. Other dinner shows take place at Fado ao Carmo and O Faia. More laid-back but still very popular shows happen at Tasca do Chico or Povo.

Bonus: Day 4

If you’re in town for another day and need another activity for your 4-day Lisbon itinerary, I got you. As you have probably seen the majority of the Lisbon highlights, why not venture off not too far away from town and see the magical castle of Sintra?

How to get to Sintra you ask? The easiest and cheapest way is for you to take the train from the Rossio Station. It will be about a 45-minute ride to town. You can also arrange a tour from Lisbon so you don’t have to worry about any logistics.

What can you do in Sintra?

• Pena Palace: The most recognizable palace in the town. It’s colorful, architecturally impressive, and of course, crowded 🙂
• Quinta da Regaleira: Beautiful estate which looks like something out of the movie.
• Monserrate Palace: An architectural mesh of cultures that will leave you stunned.

But I myself did not visit Sintra, so I am not equipped with the best advice. Instead, here is an amazing Sintra Day Trip resource from an awesome travel blogger Amanda from Dangerous Business who planned a whole day trip for you.

Final Thoughts on Lisbon

I visited Lisbon 10 years apart and seeing how much it has changed in such a short amount of time is pretty impressive. I’m excited to see what the next 10 years will look like for the city, especially with the influx of digital nomads. I genuinely hope it’s a positive influence and that the local quality of life won’t suffer too much. Lisbon certainly has its character and I would certainly recommend visiting it.

Map and Itinerary to Download

Before you download the itinerary, please read the post. This is a very high-level summary that can be quickly referenced on the go. However, you will be best prepared with a quick read above 🙂

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In my itinerary below, I will talk about my experience of visiting Maderia in December and why it will not give you the full island experience that you are probably expecting. While I am not trying to discourage you 100% from visiting during that time, I hope my experience will better prepare you compared to what I was expecting. If I knew what I’d see and what I’d miss out on, I’d plan my itinerary totally differently than how I did. That’s what I hope to give you with this post, an off–season-optimized Madeira itinerary. To compare, a couple of years back, I visited Madeira’s southern neighbor Tenerife, during a similar time. My off-season vacation there was much better in terms of weather even though geographically, these two islands are pretty close.

While this itinerary tells you additional information about traveling to Madeira off-season, you can use it all year round to plan your travels too.

At the end of the post, you can download this guide as well as a map for your travels.

Traveling to Lisbon as well? Don’t forget to check out my Lisbon guide!

Madeira Logistics

Best time to visit Madeira

Let me just cut to the chase and tell you that if you want to experience all of Madeira, off-season time considered between November and April, might not be the best choice. Despite a lot of resources telling you that Madeira could be a year-round destination, I would argue otherwise. By visiting between May to late September, you’re maximizing your chances for clear skies and good temperatures.

There are some pros, however, to visiting during the off-season as I did. You will save on flights, accommodation, and car rental and you’ll avoid the crowds that come with the vacation season in Maderia. Although most attractions won’t be closed you might not be able to see everything, especially if the weather isn’t great.

Suggested length of stay

How long you will stay depends on what you’d like to do there. For example, some hikes can take an entire day, and there are multiple that people put on their Madeira itinerary. Again, when traveling off-season, you will not be able to check everything off your Madeira bucket list so 3-5 days is a decent time frame. In season, I’d say an absolute minimum of 4 days is needed to see everything, with 5-6 being more ideal for a short trip.

Traveling to Madeira

Flights to Funchal

Getting to Maderia is pretty easy with frequent flights from Lisbon and a couple of other European airports. I even saw one direct flight from NYC flying out once per week! I like breaking up my flights rather than automatically searching between origin and destination, meaning if I’m flying from NYC, I will search NYC to Lisbon and then Lisbon to Madeira. I compare my times with layovers and frequently find better deals, instead if I were to search NYC to Madeira in one shot. A round trip for the very end of November cost me under $450 for both flights. Although I’m here to argue that off-season travel isn’t ideal here, if you’re on a budget, Madeira in December might be a great money saver!

Getting around – Car rental in Maderia

Madeira is a small island and you can drive from one end to the other in a couple of hours. North to South is even faster. Seeing the whole island is indeed possible during a Madeira 5-day itinerary.

When other travelers pointed out that driving in Madeira is an adventure in itself, I didn’t quite believe it. I drove in tricky conditions and places but driving there will get its own category in my personal driving experiences. Before my trip, one of my friends said, “If it doesn’t look like a road in Madeira, it probably is” and looking back at this, that was an extremely accurate description of driving there. Most roads in Madeira are freeways and tunnels but once you venture into towns, one-way roads will magically fit two cars and 30-degree hill roads will become the norm.

I don’t want to discourage you from renting a car there but rather prepare you for what to expect. Renting a car is the absolute best way to see the island and it will save you a ton of time on sightseeing. I normally book through Rental Cars but I found a better deal on Holiday Autos. While I am a creature of habit and don’t trust new websites on deals, I had a very smooth experience will them and will rent in the future. For your reference, an automatic car rental in Maderia during the off-season cost me ~$250 for 5 days using Rodavante with car pick up and return right at the airport. A manual rental is much cheaper but unless you drive it regularly, I would not get one there.

Although driving there was certainly a challenge, I wouldn’t have done it any other way. If you’re planning to do mountain driving, watch for an automatic car’s brakes as they might start smelling, especially in wet conditions.

Where to stay in Madeira

Where you stay during your Madeira vacation depends on what you want to do. If you’re unsure, Funchal is the main city and can be a good base for taking drives throughout the island. If hiking is your main priority, consider staying in the mountains instead. Most importantly though, if you have a car, it’s fairly easy to see all nooks of the island no matter where you stay. Maderia has a ton of hotels, some hostels, and even more Airbnbs. Which you choose should depend on your personal preference. While Airbnb has its own issues, especially in bigger cities, I felt that renting one in Madeira where I was in communication with the hosts directly was the way Airbnb originally intended the platform to be.

Airbnb in Madeira

Traveling with my parents, we opted for two Airbnb in Maderia because we wanted a comfortable base for exploring. I spent a lot of time searching for the perfect combo of what we were looking for and I think I hit the jackpot with both of them. The first Airbnb located 7 min from the airport, was the entire first floor of a large house overlooking the ocean, with a beautiful pool and a walkway to the beach promenade. One of the downsides of traveling to Madeira off-season is that we didn’t get to use the pool or spend time in stunning outside space as much. As a bonus, the coolest part was watching the planes land at the nearby airport right from my bedroom.

The second Airbnb that we rented in Madeira was located near Sao Vincente. It was a huge home in the mountains with sick views and the best host I have ever experienced throughout my years of traveling. I loved having two locations, one with the ocean view and the other with the mountain one but for someone who doesn’t want to move between two locations, this might not be the best option. If you’re interested in booking either of these locations, send me an email and I’ll be happy to share the link.

What to pack for Madeira in December

Ok, I am only including this section because I packed like an idiot for this trip. Let me explain. A couple of years back, I traveled to Tenerife during a similar time of the year. I falsely assumed that the two destinations would have similar weather and that packing 5 dresses for each day would be the way to go. My outfits consisted of light athleisure, dresses, and a couple of cute outfits for the barn (shoutout to those who get the reference). I ended up wearing two heavier sweaters and the jacket that I packed for the plane for pretty much the entire time I was there. These are the items not to forget when you travel to Madeira during the off-season:

• A rainproof jacket and/or umbrella – The rain won’t last long but when it comes around, you want to have a raincoat on hand instead of looking for a place to hide.
• Light coat or cardigan – During the day, while you won’t need a heavy coat, it will get chilly when the sun is not out.
• Waterproof shoes – If hiking is on your list to do or if you want to check out the Fanal Pond, then sneakers won’t be sufficient. The ground is wet and puddly so good outdoor shoes that won’t soak are a must.
• (Bathing suit) – I saw a couple of brave souls swimming in the chilly waters of Porto Moniz pools, if you like cold swims, don’t forget to pack a suit.

People & Safety

Overall, I’d say that most locals in Madeira were really nice. My Portuguese is non-existent but I tried to use my hello/please and thank yous whenever I could. Side note, do not use Spanish in Madeira or in any of Portugal, it is not Portuguese and it’s a faux-pas there. For the most part, the experience was very positive. In terms of safety, Madeira is a very safe destination. Some common travel scams to watch out for include the following:

• Taxi scam – This isn’t so much a Madeira scam but rather a worldwide one where dishonest taxi drivers charge you ridiculous amounts for short rides. Always demand the meter to be turned on to avoid this. It has been reported to happen in Funchal on some travel forums.
• Market fruit sample – When you go to Funchal, one of the main attractions in town is Mercado dos Lavradores. It’s a cute and colorful market filled with merchants offering you fruit samples. However, a lot of the fruit is enhanced with syrup and when you taste it, you’ll naturally want to purchase some for later. The fruit will cost you an insane amount and when you get home, it will not have the same taste as that first bite you had at the market. We bought fruit in Funchal, a couple of streets away from the market but I still got ripped off. While not a true scam, just be aware of this little selling trick.

WARNING! TRAVEL SCAM IN MADEIRA

Restaurant bill additions – As a former waitress/bartender, I’d like to think that my bullshit meter is pretty good when it comes to other waiters. I could easily tell when you’re actually in the weeds or if you’re just being lazy, because hey, I’ve done the same shit 🙂

What I always make sure to do though is check the itemized bill no matter where I’m dining. During busy moments, it is genuinely possible to make a mistake and charge extra or add a wrong item. However, when your bill magically increases by 100 euros, you know something is up. This was the case at Taberna, a small highly rated restaurant in Santa Cruz. While the nice waiter chatted with my family all dinner, when the bill came, suddenly he started rushing us with the credit card machine. That triggered a red light in my head and I asked to see the itemized bill before blindly swiping my card. Our small appetizers and a couple of drinks added to over 130 euros. I noticed that one 10 euro app was charged 10 times on the bill, a small trick that made the bill look legitimate.

Now, if I wasn’t a waitress in my past life, I would buy the story that this was an honest mistake. However, when I brought up the price discrepancy to the waiter, he quickly looked at it and said, “Oops, silly me” and didn’t apologize or display any sort of remorse for what had happened. The fact that he was quick to run to us with the credit card machine was also sus. I heard about this scam in cities like Rome or even in Lisbon but I never assumed it would happen in Maderia. So despite the food being tasty and the restaurant being super cozy, don’t assume it won’t happen even in less touristy parts of any town.

Food and Drinks to try in Madeira

Out of the entire time I spent on the island and the numerous meals I ate, I only had one mediocre meal and tbh at my own fault. The lesson I fail to learn over and over is never to order pizza outside New York or New Jersey or Italy of course. Back to Madeira food though, it is so so tasty and actually extremely affordable. Here are my top picks for food to try in Madeira:

• Prego sandwich: This is the most amazing sandwich I had in my entire life. I’m serious, nothing compares. You can get it almost anywhere. It’s a steak sandwich on buttery and garlicky bread that comes in a couple of variations.
• Espetada: A long skewer of hanging meat. Its simplicity makes it super tasty.
• Espada or black scabbard fish: This was my mom’s favorite, it is usually served with bananas. This is one weird looking creature but it tastes delicious!
• Bolo de molo de mel: This traditional honey cake is pretty tasty!
• Madeira Wine: It’s heavy and has a very distinct taste and you’ll certainly feel it going down your throat! Blandy’s Madeira is a very popular spot to consume this beverage.
• Poncha: Poncha is the most delicious alcoholic drink. It’s made of cane rum and had different fruit flavor options. Get the traditional kind and enjoy the happiness that comes after drinking this 🙂

For more interesting food finds, I used Brogan Abroad’s guide before traveling to Madeira for the tastiest food finds!

Random Useful Tips for Madeira Travel

• If the weather is acting up during your visit, check the live cams! I used these to see whether mountain peaks were clear from clouds or where I could find the sun on the island.
• Miradouros are viewpoint spots all throughout the island. Some are simple pull-over style along the highway, others require short walks to reach the spot. My advice is to stop at all of them 🙂
• When visiting Tenerife which has similar viewpoint parking areas as Madeira, my car window got smashed and all my belongings got stolen during that trip a couple of years back. When you leave your car anywhere, take everything with you. Even small stops that seem safe can be targets for petty theft.

Things to do in Madeira

In terms of the number of things to see in Madeira, I’d say you can stay pretty busy during your trip. The majority of the attractions throughout the island include outdoor activities. One of the most important things to consider when traveling off-season is how important certain attractions are to you. If you need a dense itinerary with lots of outdoor attractions, consider in-season travel. Instead, if you need a simple getaway with a couple of things to do here and there, the off-season is probably a better choice.

Below, I bring you a 5-day Madeira itinerary that also gives you an off-season expectation. However, you can use my travel plan for any time of the year. Since Madeira is a small island, for the most part, it doesn’t matter which order you do the days in. However, note that the first two days are optimized for the Funchal area and the remaining for the other parts of the island.

5-day Madeira Itinerary

At the bottom of this post, you can download this travel guide to Madeira to bring along on your trip. Additionally, you will find a map of all the attractions so you don’t have to worry about saving them yourself.

Day 0

We’ll call your arrival day, Day 0. Arriving at Madeira airport (Ronaldo Cristiano Airport 🙂 ) can be quite the experience on a windy day. If you’re a nervous flyer, I wouldn’t YouTube any videos of landings there. However, despite its windy challenges, there only has been one accident in the late 1970s. Since then, the runway has been extended and only experienced pilots are allowed to approach a landing there.

The airport is on the east side of the island and is located a short ~25 min drive from Funchal. When you get off the plane, have all your paperwork ready as you’ll be asked for your Madeira Safe bar code. If you’re renting a car (which I highly recommend), the pick-up process once you land is super easy, my checkout took under 10 mins. The rental car lot is located across the street and you should be on your way within a short time of arrival. If you require public transportation, here is a helpful official link.

Flights arrive all day long so the timing of your Day 0 will depend on where you’re coming from. I personally arrived around 8 pm but my Airbnb was located 7 mins away from the airport so I was “home” very quickly. Note that restaurants and stores aren’t open too late so if you are planning a later arrival, make sure to eat before your flight.

Day 1 – Southern Part of Madeira

Valley of the Nuns

Now that you settled in, there is no better place to start your vacation than by seeing Curral das Freiras or Valley of Nuns in Madeira. It’s located a short drive from Funchal and it’s an in/out kinda trip. This small town has a couple of restaurants and tourist shops but aside from the views, there isn’t much to do there. However, these viewpoints are crazy beautiful and you shouldn’t skip this area on your Madeira adventure.

There are two major viewpoints, the first being Eira do Serrado, a very popular spot on the island. Once you arrive at the spot, there is a small parking spot with a café. In order to get to the viewpoint, you’ll have to take a short 5 min walk. I recommend grabbing a coffee and a pastel de nata at the cafe for a little longer appreciation of the area. The second point, Paredão Viewpoint, is located above the clouds and it’s not too far from the first one. It’s also a short walk from the parking area.

After admiring the views from the top, I recommend grabbing lunch in the little town which will give you a slightly different perspective of the area. Everyone recommends a restaurant called Sabores de Curral but I opted for La Perla instead. I was extremely impressed with the food but the views along with a cold beer made it even more delicious.

Off-season struggles: The area gets mixed weather during the off-season but the good news is that if it starts raining, the clouds will most likely pass. Pack an umbrella or a rain jacket. We waited out the rain having a coffee and then got rewarded with a beautiful rainbow!

Funchal

For the second part of the day, visiting Funchal will give you the exact opposite vibes from your nature-filled morning. Funchal is the capital of Madeira and is certainly worth spending some time in. If you’re driving in, the streets can get really narrow so rather than looking for street parking, I recommend finding a parking garage near the center. Garage prices are very cheap and it will save you time and a headache.

I would simply recommend walking around Zona Velha, seeing the market, and most important feeling the liveliness of the town by spending some time by the waterfront. Don’t forget a mandatory stop for some good poncha either. Note that I am not including the botanical gardens just yet. Funchal is safe but make sure to watch your belongings for pickpockets. Here are some known attractions in the city for you to check out:

• Mercado Lavaradores: Yes it is a tourist trap but hear me out for a second. The market has really pretty colors and cute souvenirs to look at. I certainly wouldn’t buy fruit here (read my scam warning above) but I do like browsing through places like these.
• Avenida Arriaga: Right next to the market, you will find this shopping street with a lot of tourists. It’s a good spot to take a stroll and window shop for a bit.
• Zona Velha: This is the Old Town part of town which includes cobblestone streets, restaurants, bars and lively nightlife.
• Cathedral of Funchal: A pretty local catholic church right in the heart of town.
• Praça do Povo & Funchal Marina: Walk along the waterfront to catch the nice atmosphere of locals and tourists. When I visited in late 2021, that area had a cute little town fair with rides.
• Parque de Santa Catarina: Cute little park with views of the town and the incoming ships.
• Cristiano Ronaldo Statue: If you make your way by the park, grab a photo with the icon of Madeira, the one and only Cristiano Ronaldo. Since he was born on the island, you will see a lot of references to him. There is even a museum 🙂

Make sure to stop at Rei da Poncha, a very popular hole in the wall with some great tasting poncha and some great snacks too. The outdoor tables might be full but just linger around for a couple of minutes and a table will free up in no time.

Off-season struggles: Day one of your Maderia travel will actually work in your favor if you’re traveling off-season. Funchal won’t be too crowded with people and if you’re visiting in late November or December you will get to see fun holiday decor. The southern part of the island is usually sunny and even if it rains, the rain should pass by quickly. Places like Rei da Poncha won’t have a line and you won’t be annoyed with the crowds.

Day 2

(Pico do Arieiro)

Pico do Arierio was one of the most anticipated spots I wanted to see in Madeira. A simple google search will show you why. It’s the third-highest peak and one of the only that you don’t actually have to hike. Yes, you can simply drive there and see the most amazing views without any pain 🙂

I wanted to see the incredible sunrise overlooking Madeira under the clouds. However, we attempted this sunrise once in person and then checked the webcams for both, sunrise and sunset for the entire time we were there and were not able to successfully see this spot. One of the biggest risks you take with traveling off-season is missing amazing spots like this one. I’m including this on Day 2 because you might have to attempt to see it multiple times during your trip.

However, if you’re traveling in season, you have to check this couple’s guide to visit Pico Arieiro and actually all their Maderia guides which are extremely detailed and resourceful. There is a very popular day hike from Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruvio and I recommend that blog to give you the best details on it.

Back to Funchal

While the first day in Funchal consisted of exploring the basics of the city, I did don’t want to include the botanical gardens then, as the whole experience would have been very rushed. So for day two, you can explore either Monte Palace or Madeira Botanical Gardens (or maybe even both if you love gardens). I personally only visited Monte Palace and it was a super beautiful place that I’ll recommend to you.

Here is some info on them:

• Monte Palace – An additional attraction to this place is the fact that you can take a cable car from Funchal on the Funchal – Monte line to get here scoring some awesome views from above of the city. A one-way ticket is 11 euros and a roundtrip is 16. Their Japanese-style gardens were stunning and I had a great time taking random turns and not following the map per se. We spend about 3 hours exploring which included a stop at the gift shop for some complimentary Madeira wine tasting. To get back to Funchal you can simply take a cable car back or take a ride in the famous Toboggan cart ride. It was a little too touristy for me but people swear this is a fun activity.
• Botanical Gardens – The second gardens are located not too far from Monte Palace and are connected by the Botanical – Monte line in case you wanted to take the cable car again. I haven’t visited these gardens but people often prefer Monte over this location.

Cabo Girão Skywalk

After exploring the gardens, take a short ride to the famous glass skywalk with great ocean and Funchal views. To be honest I expected a much bigger platform however it was still pretty impressive. There is no entrance fee and the spot gets pretty crowded. One thing that I loved more than the views was the strong eucalyptus scent from all the trees as you walk around. There is a small cafe with overpriced food and drinks on site but I recommend stopping there for a little break to enjoy the view even more.

Options for the afternoon

Personally, this is where I would take a little break and head back to my hotel and Airbnb to relax. Sometimes I tend to overlook how important relaxing is during vacation 🙂 However, if you’d like to continue with your day two activities, here are some ideas for the afternoon:

• Vinhos Barbeito: I found a nice family-owned winery near Funchal. It has great reviews and I imagine the wine tastes really good! Madeira wine is special within itself so why not drink it from someone that knows what they’re doing.
• Ribeira Brava: Explore this cute little town with shops, restaurants and nice mountain and ocean views. Beaches in Madeira are located all over the island but I actually found people swimming in this one off-season as the sun likes this place no matter what the month.
• Funchal at night: Local cuisine is bomb. So make sure to take yourself to a nice place, have some good traditional food and then walk around the town at night. Most towns should always be seen during the day and night. There is a whole new vibe that emerges when the lights dim!

Day 3 – Sao Lourenco toward Sao Vincente

For Day 3 of your awesome Madeira adventure, I recommend heading to the northern part of the island. Now that you got to see most of the Funchal area and its surrounding gems, it’s time to head to the super green part of the island. The one thing to note when you’re traveling to Madeira off-season is that the weather in the northern part is almost always more cloudy and wet compared to the southern part. This is what will make the biggest distinction between traveling in the off-months compared to peak season.

Ponta de São Lourenço

This awesome hike is certainly not a hidden gem of the island. If possible try to arrive before 10 am as the spot gets pretty crowded. Even better if you can make a sunrise hike! If you’re worried about weather conditions, don’t forget to check out the webcams.

This hike starts at the parking trail and goes all the way to the tippy top of Madeira. You won’t be able to reach the very end of these crazy rock formations because the very last part is separated by the ocean. The hike should take you between 1.5 to 2.5 hours each way depending on how many times you take picture stops. Towards the end, you will find a small cafe where you can use the bathroom or grab a coffee. This is a very popular part of the island so expect some crowds.

For a very detailed plan for this hike, I found this blog which does an excellent job of preparing you for it.

Off-season struggles: The weather is not going to be your best friend here. It might get more chilly and windy in the months of November and December. However, since peaks might not even be doable during that time, this is one of the few chances you have to experience Madeira’s nature.

Northern Drive Toward Sao Vincente

After the hike, you won’t probably want to do any more walking so I recommend a scenic drive along the northeastern part of the island. Here are a couple of stops to consider. Depending on the timing of your morning, you will not be able to do all of them so check out my photos below to see which ones you think you’d like best:

• Coastal Viewpoints – choose one:
  • Faial Beach: This little beach is located about 25 minutes from Sao Lourenco parking lot. I found it on accident while driving in that area. I wouldn’t swim there per say but the landscape is really nice! Off-season you probably won’t see another soul there!
  • Miradouro do Guindaste: Right above Faial Beach, there is a nice coastal viewpoint offering the awesome view the beach does but from slightly above. I’d say do one or the other since the views will be very similar.
  • Miradouro do Curtado: This one is located a short 10 min drive from the point mentioned before. It offers a nice view of local town as well as the northern coast nearby.
• Santana Houses: This was the most crowded place I encountered on my off-season trip to Madeira. Why you ask? I have no clue because as cute as the Santana Houses are unless you have some sort of historical curiosity about them, there really isn’t that much to see there. I don’t know what I expected but certainly not what I saw. I’d say you can pass this location if touristy places bother you.
• Hotel & Restaurante Quinta do Furão: This is a good place for an early dinner but before you head to the restaurant, go on a little walk around the property. There is a vineyard in the back and a garden in that is accessible to walk around patrons and it was a (hidden) place during out little drive. It’s super pretty and you can even catch a view of a waterfall from there.
• Miradouro da Beira da Quinta: Super quick stop but nonetheless a nice viewpoint of the local area.
• Sao Vincente: This is a small town that’s the base of a lot of northern hikes for people. We stayed at an Airbnb for the second part of our trip here and loved the quiet atmosphere and more local vibe compared to Funchal. The small town has a couple of restaurants and bars by the water. If you’re not staying in the area, I’d recommend grabbing some food before heading back home. I ate at Restaurante Calamar which had delicious food for amazing prices and Poncha de Sao Vincente, a local bar with awesome apps.

Off-season struggles: The northern part of the island is the rainiest and most cloudy off-season. Consider that when packing clothes for your exploration there. All the spots I mentioned above were cloudy and chilly when I visited. Comparing photos of them in the sun from other travel blogs, I certainly feel like I didn’t get the proper experience of them.

Day 4

Drive toward Porto Moniz

Before you head to see the famous swimming pools of Porto Moniz, there is a couple of quick stops you can make before heading over.

• Miradouro do Véu da Noiva: This is a very popular viewpoint on the island and while I think it was cute, I didn’t find it as fascinating as others have described. The main highlight of this stop is a waterfall that drops into the ocean but since it is pretty far and the road to access it is closed, it’s just a small stop. There is a gift shop there but it was very pricey compared to others I’ve seen.
• Seixal: What many describe as the best beach in Madeira is located in Seixal, a small town on the northern coast. It’s all black sand contrasting with vibrant green nature and surrounded by mountains. There are also small natural swimming pools located in town. While during off-season travel you won’t be able to swim, it’s worth visiting for the picturesque views.

Porto Moniz

The Porto Moniz natural swimming pools are swimming areas formed by lava and filled with fresh seawater on the northwestern side of the island. They are one of the coolest outdoor swimming pools I have seen. I hate to break it to you this early in the description but unless you like cold swimming, traveling during the off-season will unfortunately not allow you to fully enjoy them. I was super upset that I wasn’t able to swim in them, after naively reading some online comments claiming that late November is sometimes ok for swimming.

There are two pool areas in town. One with an entrance fee but only 1.5 euros, there you will find lockers and snack bars the other is free but more rocky and natural. The actual town is super small, you can walk from one pool area to the other in under 10 mins. However, my friends, I do not think you should skip visiting the town even without swimming. It is indeed impressive to see them and take some pictures in the area. I recommend making a stop in Porto Moniz for lunch or a drink.

Fanal Forest

Quick Tip: If you’re heading to Fanal Forest or Fanal Pond from Porto Moniz, make an easy and quick stop at Miradouro da Eira da Achada for more island views from above.

Fanal Forest is the one place that should work in your favor during off-season travel. Why? Because people love this place for a mystical experience of the fog and creepy vibes. If you visit during the summer peak months, the chances of the fog are said to be greatest in the morning. However, in the “winter” months, you can catch it at pretty much any time. Simply put Fanal Pond in your GPS and you will arrive in a small parking lot, then walk towards the forest. I recommend packing waterproof shoes and a waterproof jacket if you’re planning to walk around. I got soaked and cold while exploring and it wasn’t too pleasant. Overall it’s a cool place to visit for some awesome pictures. Put a pin in your map as the further you walk in the fog, the more likely you are to get lost.

There are many cows in that forest so be careful not to step in some cow poo as you’re taking your picture 🙂

Day 5

If you followed my itinerary, by day 5 you’ve seen top places that Madeira is known for. For this last day, I will give you options of things to do that are worth seeing on this stunning island depending on what you like to do.

Hikes & Levada Walks

Madeira is known for many hiking trails and Levada walks. I’m more of a drive-to-a-peak kinda gal unless I’m feeling inspired to hike as I did in Poland this summer (You can read my guest post on We Are Travel Girls about my super awesome hike in the Tatra Mountains). I did not hike in Madeira therefore I cannot give you solid advice on it. However, I found this amazing and super informative post from Claire on her blog and I recommend you follow her for the best hiking advice.

Small things to do in Madeira on the western side of the island

The western side is not as touristy as the other side of the island but that doesn’t mean if you should skip it. Although there aren’t as many attractions, here are a couple of spots to visit there:

• Garganta Funda Viewpoint: Although you will need to walk about 15 minutes to reach this viewpoint, the awesome waterfall that you will see at the end will make it worth it. The nice thing about traveling off-season is that you’re likely to see it in full action compared to the summer when it dries up. I regret not seeing this place during my visit.
• Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse: A small picturesque lighthouse on the far end of the island. It might not be a super exciting spot, but you can take a small walk in the area and admire the calm atmosphere.
• Cascata dos Anjos: The famous waterfall that falls on your car as your drive on ER101 is certainly a cool experience. If you’re driving toward the west side, you can even pull over and see it up close.

Speaking of the western side …

There is a less-known thing you do on the western side which is Achadas da Cruz cable car bringing you in the (almost) empty small local village. It’s an area only accessible by cable car (between 8 am to 6 pm) or a super steep trail. Not many (if any) locals stay there full time, it’s more of a nature getaway for them. For you, it means exploring two remote villages with stunning surrounding nature. I found a very detailed and informative guide on this hidden Madeiran location. Journey Era gives you more than enough detail about this place, he even takes the hike back up the hill in the evening.

Madeira Beaches

Although you won’t be able to comfortably swim in the ocean if you’re traveling off-season, or if you like cold water, spending some time near the beach even at a local cafe or bar is really nice.

• Calheta Beach has white imported sand and gives some nice tropical vibes. There are some all-inclusive hotels in the area too.
• Seixal Black Sand Beach: I mentioned this beach earlier but if you like black sand vibes, you should spend some time enjoying the beauty of Seixal.
• Ponta do Sol Beach: In the (almost always) sunny part of Madeira, you can find a nice small beach to enjoy without the crowds.

Porto Santo

If you’d like to do something more unique, take a day trip to Porto Santo, a small island located a 2-hour ferry ride away or even a short plane ride. There are daily morning departures with evening returns. Some people recommend spending more than a day there, while others do a day trip and are content. Here are two contrasting opinions, a day trip one, and a longer excursion. Hopefully, this lets you decide whether a day trip is worth it for you. Nonetheless, Porto Santo is a stunning destination that could be added as a bonus if you’re already in the area 🙂

Madeira Tours

If organized tours are something you enjoy, consider booking one in Madeira. Some of the more popular choices include dolphin/whale watching boat trips, jeep tours through the island, or even organized hikes. While these are not something I would opt-in to do in Madeira, as the majority of the things can be done solo, a lot of people enjoy having a pre-planned day.

While short excursions are not my thing, I personally always recommend food tours through which not only can you learn about the local cuisine, but see the area, learn history and interact with other like-minded people. I found a highly-rated tour, Madeira Food on Foot which offers different tours and even pre-made picnic baskets. I’d say that’s the best Madeira tour there is 🙂

Download this Madeira guide

Here is a free downloadable guide for you of all the places I talked about above. It’s a pocket version so I recommend reading everything above before downloading the guide for your travels 🙂

Download It HERE

Map of Madeira

Final thoughts on things to do in Madeira in December or any other off-season month

As promised at the start of the post, I tried to give you a realistic expectation of Madeira off-season. I’d say that I romanticized it too much and imagined that I could do more than I did even in the “winter” months.

To recap, here are the cons of things to do in Madeira during off-season times:

• Higher chance of poor weather: The rain and clouds will limit what you can see and do. What you imagine to be a sunny afternoon hike or a beach day will turn into hiding in cafes until the rain passes.
• Not seeing the best sunrise and sunset spots: The chances of having a clear sky up in the mountains which would normally give you out-of-this-world sunrises and sunsets are very slim. For 5/5 days of travel, there wasn’t a single day that we were able to see any peaks. I anxiously kept checking weather cams and even drove to two spots to check myself and I was not successful of seeing either of them.
• Natural Lava Pools: Despite having lava in its name, the swimming pools of Porto Moniz or Seixal will be chilly to comfortably enjoy in the colder months. They’re a really awesome way to spend a day in Madeira so the fact that I missed out makes me irked.
• Hikes: Again, this being related to the weather, everything will be wet. Walking in chilly and wet conditions is not a pleasant experience to me.

BUT, here are some pros:

• There will be very few tourists.
• Prices are usually better for hotels and flights.
• You will have a lot of places to yourself.

Sometimes off-season travel is the only time you have to take from work so you make it work. I wish I instead visited Madeira during shoulder season for example. Visiting in the months of May or September would give me the off-season vibes I love but not have limited me in the number of things I wanted to do. Knowing what I know now I would not have traveled to Madeira in December but I hope I gave you enough realistic expectations to make the decision for yourself.

Gladly, this itinerary is informative enough for any season so feel free to download it when you travel to Madeira. If you do, share a photo! Don’t forget to comment down below on whether you think Madeira is worth traveling off-season and what experiences you might have had there!

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