mercado rodriguez in la paz bolivia
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La Paz Itinerary: The Highest City In The World

La Paz intimidated me at first due to its not-so-hot reputation. I didn’t know what to expect, whether I’d feel safe and how the altitude would affect me after what I experienced in Peru. Having found many warnings for this destination, my nerves were pretty heightened for this trip despite being a not-so-nervous traveler, to begin with. Was La Paz as sketchy as people made it sound? Yes and no. Although I felt pretty safe and welcomed, I’d be lying if I said I was completely relaxed. It was indeed one of my favorite destinations simply because of how unique and authentic it was.

With this La Paz itinerary and useful resource for your travels, I hope to show you that this is a one-of-a-kind destination. I want to prepare you for what to expect, what to see, and how to make the most of this Bolivian adventure.

This post will try to cover the basics of everything you need to know about traveling to La Paz, things to see, and most importantly give you free downloadable itineraries at the bottom of the post! This is your one-stop for everything you need to know about traveling to La Paz.

Let’s get to the logistics of visiting La Paz, Bolivia

La Paz in Bolivia is a hidden gem to an average traveler. Backpackers, however, invaded the city a while back. It’s not as crowded with tourists as its next-door neighbors, Lima or Cusco for example, which makes this city a very unique destination. Tourism in places with high levels of poverty can be tricky but if done consciously, can tremendously help the economy. I hope that my small footprint was able to help as well.

Full Bolivia itinerary

Before we dive into La Paz specifics, for your reference, my personal Bolivia itinerary included the cities below. I’d say they’re the most popular Bolivia places to see:

  • Flew into La Paz to take a bus into Copacabana (base for Lake Titicaca) and stayed there a night to acclimate.
  • Then took a boat to Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca with an overnight stay there.
  • Returned to Copacabana to take a bus back to La Paz to stay there for 4 days.
  • Next stop from La Paz to Uyuni for a 3 day Salt Flats tour.
  • After the tour, I took an overnight bus to Sucre and stayed there for 4 days.
  • My last stop was Santa Cruz to which I took a flight from Sucre. I stayed there for another 3 days.

Bolivia travel budget

Bolivia is one of the poorest countries in South America so traveling there was really cheap. Here is a rough idea of how much things cost there for me in 2019 for the entire trip:

  • Flights: NYC to La Paz, Sucre to Santa Cruz, Santa Cruz to NYC: $550
  • Other transport including taxis and buses: $80
  • Uyuni Tour: $140
  • Hotels and hostels: $200
  • Food: Most meals are under $5, more upscale restaurants are $20 for dinners, and really boujee places $50 for a special night out.

Traveling to Bolivia as a US citizen

While most countries don’t need a visa while traveling to Bolivia, the US relationship with the country made it mandatory to get one. That’s why it was quite rare to find many American travelers there. Obtaining a visa was fairly straightforward and I got one at the New York Bolivian embassy for a hefty fee of $160 USD.

Good news for you my fellow traveler, as of 2020’s change of presidents, US citizens are no longer required to get a visa for Bolivia. However, you should always check if that’s still the case at the time of your travels.

Surviving high altitude in La Paz, Bolivia

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La Paz is located at 11,900 feet above sea level, and its El Alto neighborhood is even higher at 13,615 feet. It’s the highest administrative capital in the world. That’s pretty high. To quickly compare, Denver, Colorado is only a little over 5,000 feet. What happens to you at such a high elevation, is that your body can no longer take in the same amount of oxygen per breath. This condition is called hypoxia. Having less available oxygen makes your head hurt, you’ll feel confused and tired and it will be hard to breathe too.

The first time I experienced pretty bad symptoms of altitude sickness was when I visited Cusco. When I was going to Bolivia, I wanted to be prepared so I researched ways to make this process less painful. I found out that you have to take Acetazolamide or Diamox, a high blood pressure medication that can ease your symptoms of altitude sickness. I went to the doctor and got my prescription ready.

This is what it felt like for me: My doctor suggested starting the meds 3 days prior to arrival. After landing, I felt my head get a little heavy but not as bad as it did in Peru. My first stop in Bolivia was Copacabana and I was pretty ok throughout the day. At night, however, I got a headache that felt like my brain was about to explode. I cried because I thought it was my last day on earth, not kidding. To my surprise, I managed to fall asleep and woke up totally fine. After that, I did not have any more major issues while traveling the rest of Bolivia.

How to survive altitude sickness:

  • Give yourself a day to do nothing and get your body used to the brutal altitude. Read a book, lay around and whatever you do, do not drink alcohol!
  • Instead, drink tons and tons of water before and when you get there.
  • If you know you will get sick based on prior experience, consider getting a prescription from your doctor for Acetazolamide or Diamox, a blood pressure medication that has a positive effect on altitude sickness. Its mechanism of action is believed to make your blood more acidic thus making oxygen stick to hemoglobin molecules in your blood a little better. I used it, and although it didn’t save me completely, it helped a lot compared to my experience in Cusco.
  • If your symptoms get really bad, you can ask for oxygen at the hotel or you can descend to a lower altitude if possible.

Where to stay in La Paz

Staying in La Paz’s Center area is your best bet for a short stay. It’s the safest for a tourist, you’ll be central to everything and you can pretty much get anywhere from there. It’s kind of dirty and chaotic so if that’s important to you it might not be the best choice. Sopocachi is the hip area to be in. Although a little further away, it’s connected well to the center. The Zona Sur has more financial district/shopping/wealthy area vibes but I don’t know if I would recommend it for your first visit to the city.

Basically, anywhere you stay, nice hotels are cheap, and Airbnbs even cheaper for penthouse-like views. Hostels can be even found for $5 a night and are a great time in this country.

I stayed at Wild Rover, a known party chain hostel. It was good for coordinating a walking tour, the death road trip, and transfer to my next destination and obviously, it had a great social atmosphere. Honestly, I would only recommend it to a traveler that knows what they’re getting themselves into. It’s a party hostel meaning your door will probably be open all the time, people will be loud and obnoxious and your room will not have the accommodations you might expect. However, it is a unique experience for backpacking and if you’re going to stay in one at some point in your life, this city is a good option for it.

How to navigate La Paz

Landing at the airport is an experience within itself. The views upon landing are incredible. To get to your accommodation, you can pre-book a cheap taxi or take the city bus 212 which offers many convenient stops in the city.

La Paz itself is huge. Like seriously a huge city with some sketchy neighborhoods too. Mine and everyone else’s favorite way of getting around the city is the Teleferico, the coolest public transport I have ever been on. This post describes the experience very nicely! When you check out the most current map, make sure to pay attention to which lines are being built vs. which exist. I made the mistake of thinking there was a line and getting stuck on the other side of the city.

If you’re scared of heights, you have the option of taxis, Ubers, micro, or minibusses. Make sure that you take a radio taxi for your safety. I took the minibus where the route is displayed on the window and where you yell at the driver where to get off. It was a very local experience and I loved taking that authentic ride in the city too.

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People & Safety in Bolivia

Tourism isn’t as popular in this city as it is in other South American countries so you’ll get a mix of reactions from local people. Most were very friendly, helping me out when I got lost in El Alto to get me back home. I do speak conversational Spanish so I’m sure that it helped too. Others weren’t as welcoming as one would ideally like. A taxi driver charged me an insane fare when I ventured out into the local town and left me with no choice but to pay. Another not-so-memorable moment was getting some crazy looks and comments while shopping in a remote, non-tourist area.

As far as safety, you should be fine but also aware that you are traveling to a very poor place. Second poorest after Venezuela in South America. Poverty, unfortunately, forces some people into doing bad things. There are stories of ATM kidnappings, fake police officers asking you for your papers, or fake travelers approaching you with a scam. Here is a good post on the most common scams in La Paz, Bolivia

Walking alone at night is not a good idea, especially if you’re a girl. I personally had no problems in the city despite all the warnings. For comparison, I experienced theft in Spain twice and that’s supposed to be a “richer” country. So stay alert, don’t be naive, and don’t assume everyone is out to get you.

Most Bolivians are extremely nice and welcoming people. Embrace that but don’t go blindly trusting everyone that approaches you.

Food in La Paz

I’m guilty of eating most of my food in La Paz at my hostel. I ventured out to a couple of restaurants and loved the dishes but I certainly did not eat my way through the city as I did in Sucre or Santa Cruz. Therefore, aside from telling you how much I love salteñas, I am not a good resource for this section. Instead, read this short and super sweet guide from Temporary Provisions for food to eat and restaurants to try while visiting this city.

Sightseeing in La Paz, Bolivia

The city has a decent amount of things on your La Paz itinerary and a three-day trip to the city is enough to see the highlights and get the local vibe. There are a couple of day trips you will want to take so that can add some length to your stay. This city truly does offer some weird things to do though so rather than passing it on your gringo trail, embrace it.

Bolivia as a country has a lot of interesting places to see so spending a long in La Paz may not be necessary unless you plan on working from there. See a list of my perfect choices for things to do below.


Perfect Things To Do on Your La Paz Itinerary

Plaza Murillo

The main square of the city, often referred to as the Plaza Murillo, is a must-see attraction when visiting La Paz. Located in the heart of the city, the Plaza is home to several significant landmarks, including the Presidential Palace, the National Congress of Bolivia, and the Cathedral of La Paz. The Plaza is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike, with many people enjoying an afternoon stroll around the square, watching the hustle and bustle of city life, and observing the many vendors selling food and trinkets. If you take a walking tour of the Plaza, you’ll have the opportunity to learn about the rich history of this important cultural and political hub. It’s worth noting that demonstrations and protests can sometimes take place in the Plaza, so it’s important to be aware of your surroundings and avoid any potential dangers.

Mi Teleferico

Technically not an official sightseeing attraction, but simply the best and coolest way to see La Paz. Mi Teleferico is a super modern, clean, and high-tech cable car, that for a very small price of 3 Bolivianos or about 0.50 cents a ride, lets you see the city from above. Transfers aren’t included so you will need to buy a ticket for each line change.

I couldn’t hype this up enough as I have never experienced anything like it before. Seeing the city from that many angles and from that height was simply insane. Seeing Illimani in the background was even crazier.

Oh, and if you’re fascinated by those types of vistas, don’t forget to make your way over to Mirador Killi Killi for some stunning views of the city too. If possible, try to catch some night views too.

Markets in La Paz

The most known one, The Witches Market, is a weird place, mostly curated for tourists. It sells witch-like things such as potions, llama fetuses, and many other sacrificial objects. You will either be weirded out or fascinated by it. I personally found it a cheesy souvenir market but still enjoyed browsing around the weird items. Don’t forget to buy the South American gringo medallion, otherwise known as the alpaca sweater. Although I got mine in Peru, there was not a shortage of them here either.

Walk a little further away and you will find a local produce and goods market Mercado Rodriguez, which is an actual authentic spot for locals to do their grocery shopping. There is also a more everyday item market, Mercado Negro, or an artisanal Ayni Market.

Another cool spot is the market in El Alto neighborhood which happens on Thursdays and Sundays. It’s huge and considered one of the biggest in South America. I found it fascinating and loved the very local vibe it offered. I scored some awesome street salteñas there too. Note that since this is a very local market, the majority of the items there will be of no use to you, like auto parts or household items. It’s more so for a local experience than anything else.

My personal favorite was Mercado Lanza, which is an indoor place with fresh juices and other great local food choices. I recommend it for grabbing a lunch bite. Very authentic and more importantly, very tasty 🙂

Plaza San Francisco

Plaza San Francisco is another major square located in La Paz, and it is known for its busy atmosphere due to its central location at the intersection of several major roads. While the Plaza itself may not have many activities or attractions, it is situated next to a popular market and is home to the impressive San Francisco Cathedral. Visitors can enter the cathedral for free, but there may be a fee for taking a tour or accessing certain areas of the building. Despite its busy location, Plaza San Francisco is worth a visit for its historic and cultural significance, and for the opportunity to explore the beautiful cathedral.

Calle Sagarnaga

I really liked this street despite its reputation for being a tourist trap. It has cheesy souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. I would certainly recommend visiting it despite it being a gringo trap. It will most likely be on your route to the Witches Market too. Don’t forget to get at least one typical gift there, for example, a cute little alpaca that you can drag all the way home with you 🙂 Yes, I have one, and yes I pet it at least once a week till this day.

San Pedro Prison

If you haven’t heard of this place, you MUST and I repeat, MUST read this amazing article about it. I learned about this prison on a walking tour and I was immediately fascinated with its history and current operating status. What I also learned, however, is how dangerous this place is to the locals and how the prisoners run criminal activities from the inside. So while I was blown away but how it functions, I am also aware of how horrible it is.

There are some insane tourists that choose to take a tour inside with one of the prisoners offering to smuggle them in as a “relative”. It’s actually quite a popular thing to do in town. I’m always down for some crazy and stupid things to do when I travel, however, this is the one thing I chose to stay away from. Remember, if you are considering this type of tour, you’re not exploring a local sketchy neighborhood, you’re going to a walled community of thousands of criminals. Instead, just choose a good walking tour that will give you the gist of what you need to know.

228 Bolivia

Valle de la Luna

Valle de la Luna or Valley of the Moon is out of this planet maze of rocks that will blow your mind. It seriously looks like you’ve transported yourself to outer space. To get there, take the green Teleferico to the end and then a short taxi to the entrance. Another option is a taxi or Uber, a colectivo or you can also book an organized tour. It’s not really necessary to have a guide there I would save you the money. The entrance fee is about $3. Prepare to spend 1 to 2 hours there or even longer if you’re taking some cool pictures.

Estadio Hernando Siles

It’s not a secret that South America is obsessed with futbol. Why not do something unique and head to the local stadium to catch a team play at this ridiculously high altitude. I learned about this place after some people from the hostel were heading out to watch a game. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to go but all the fellow travelers that experienced it loved the vibe. Tickets run about $20 if you get them last minute and depending on who is playing. Catch the national team play there with the potential of seeing other major South American teams too.

Chualluma

Is street art and off-the-radar neighborhoods something you enjoy? Then look no further than the unique neighborhood of Chualluma. Your best bet is to take a taxi there but The Partying Travel describes how to get there in a more DIY way. It seems like this is an upcoming neighborhood for a hot insta-spot in the near future. Don’t put it on your radar for that but rather the story behind the art. Read the fascinating story about recent art here.

Cholitas Wrestling Match

I heard mixed reviews about this activity. What is it you ask? It’s sorta like a Bolivian WWE show where women in traditional attire and long braids wrestle each other as people gather to watch in plastic chairs around the ring. What? Yes, you read that correctly. For me, it was too cheesy and not something I cared to experience. Some friends from the hostel, however, appreciated to strange activity. Here is a good reference in case you’re interested.

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Courtesy of Fodor’s Travel Guide

Party

La Paz is a fun city to party in. All the top party hostels have daily drinking events and many themed nights. I spent all my nights at Wild Rover mainly due to the fact that I met some awesome people there. We enjoyed sharing travel stories over cheap beers and watching fellow backpackers make idiots of themselves too. For a more sophisticated scene head to Sopocachi.

Note, the city is also known for some nasty cocaine bars that tourists seem to chase. Truth is, you’re probably putting yourself at unnecessary risk and getting scammed by buying shit cocaine. All I have to say is be smart if that’s your vice but there are much cooler things to do compared to a dungy basement with gringo coke.


Day Trips for your La Paz itinerary

Death Road

Despite its huge popularity, this was one of the main highlights of my trip to Bolivia. This dangerous road received its reputation from the old days where its yearly death toll reached about 300 casualties. It’s much much safer now and if you’ve ridden a bike in your life and don’t have a fear of heights, you will be fine. Don’t underestimate its danger though. There are some parts of it which if you’re not paying attention could be very dangerous. A couple of narrow turns made my stomach seriously drop so if you are not a fan of adrenaline, don’t be a hero.

Unless you have a bike in Bolivia, you will need to book a tour. There are many companies offering a similar excursion so make sure to find one that has a good safety record. Your journey will start early in the morning on a paved road. This part will get you used to the bike and the conditions. At this altitude and this time of the day, you will be crazy cold. Then, you will continue on the actual death road which for the most part is unpaved. The views are like nowhere else and it’s such an incredible experience.

Don’t worry if you’re a slow biker, there will be a van following the last person making sure you’re safe. During the tour, you will stop a couple of times for small breaks, for lunch and of course for pictures. The ride will end in a warm jungle with a pool and drinks to relax and celebrate conquering this adventure.

Between the transport, stops, and extras that your tour company offers, expect this to be a 5-6 hour excursion and will cost you close to $100. It’s not cheap but it’s 1000% worth the hype.

Valle de las Animas

Valley of the Souls is the perfect name for this place. It’s empty, extremely quiet, and borderline eerie. However, the landscape and views of Illimani make it a perfect destination for your La Paz adventure list. Hiking this gem was no joke but it was simply stunning. Don’t try to do this during a rainy day either as the conditions become a lot tougher. There are many tours going now compared to when I traveled there and more resources about how to get there depending on which hike you’d like to do.

I took a long bus ride there from La Paz, ended up in the small town of Ovejuyo, and took a taxi to a small village at the Ruta Alterna “entrance”. Mind you, there are no clear signs where to enter or any trails so do yourself a favor and download an offline map. I simply remember just blindly following someone’s directions from TripAdvisor. Although eventually successful, my experience was a little bit messy so I don’t necessarily recommend my way of getting there.

Chacaltaya

This is a really cool day trip to a mountain summit on which you can find an abandoned ski resort. It was once the highest one in the world but after the glacier melted due to global warming, the resort closed. There are a couple of tour operators from La Paz that will drive you there and let you summit this high point in an hour or two. It’s a unique spot but you have to make sure that you’re acclimated before trekking that kind of altitude. A lot of excursions offer a two-part tour during which you will also have the chance to visit the Moon Valley too. It’s a good combo for a full-day trip if you don’t mind the extra cost. Check out this cool post on it from Snow Brains!

Muelle del Diablo

This is another rock formation offering beautiful views of the surrounding area. There are two ways to see it, hike to the top, or just take a taxi that will literally bring you all the way to it. To get there by public transport, take a microbus to the south of the city, then get on a minibus to Pedregal from outside the San Miguel Church. From there you can hike up.

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Perfect La Paz Itinerary: FREE downloadable guides for your stay

Although not easy, La Paz is a unique destination. I hope you find its magic as I did and are able to appreciate how special it is.

All my itineraries were made after I traveled to a destination so they are optimized for things I wish I did differently. I hope that my mistakes could help you avoid any bumps in the road. However, if you feel like some plans can be even more perfect, please let me know in the comments below!

Two Perfect Days in La Paz

This itinerary starts with a free walking tour or a self-guided one for which I list all the highlights of the city. In the afternoon, you will explore the city from above in one of the coolest modes of transportation in the world, the Teleferico. For the evening, I suggest a nice dinner as well as checking out a nice viewing spot of the city.

On the second day, you will explore Valle de la Luna and an abandoned ski resort. Then you will relax and explore the culinary scene at night. If you don’t like the choices for day two, feel free to check out the third day from the three-day itinerary for more options on things to do outside the city.

Three Perfect Days in La Paz

The first two days are exactly like the two-day plan. On the third one, however, you will have a choice of an awesome activity. My personal pick is Death Road, but I give you a couple of other options in case that’s too scary for you.

I hope you enjoyed my guide and downloaded my itineraries for your travels. I had an amazing time in Bolivia, at the moment remains the top travel destination I have ever been to. It’s not for every traveler, but if you like amazing views, unique experiences, and a more authentic travel experience, this country should be on your top bucket list.

If you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, please share them below!

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